The Realeaux RX300.

Ooddles of battery life in a big yet weirdly nice package.

So I’ve had a Realeaux Rx200 since the first week they came out, its always in my daily rotation, the form factor and battery life are fantastic.

I typically vape claptons – single core kanthal, at around .18-.2 ohm and I usually like a nice warm 110-120w vape. So for me, battery life is pretty key.

And out comes the 300, a big black block. I picked it up from my favorite brick and mortar for a very reasonable price (about 60-70ish euro if I remember correctly) about a month ago. To be honest I had a very singular use in mind – I drive a lot, sometimes full days in the car – this was to be my car mod, it fits a cup holder and I don’t have to change batteries half way through the day.

On first impression – its big. But you get used to it surprisingly quickly. About a week after I got it, I was heading out and I had no other charged batteries so i threw it in my hoodie pocket and brought it with me. Now I find myself taking it everywhere.

The battery life I have 4x samsung 25R batteries in the mod. Each with 2500 mah. Now does this mean i have 10000mah?

To be perfectly honest, I’m not sure, from the insert config of the batteries it appears its two parallel sets of series batteries. In normal terms, say a dual series box, this does not equate to more battery life – its just more voltage. But we also have the parallel. So it can do more volts, for longer.

As I said, I’m not sure, things like this aren’t always widely announced with fanfare in the vaping world. What I can say is, vaping a griffin 25 at 85w – you get 4 days without a charge. You could even push 5. To me that’s insane and its definitely worth the buy.

Now issues – there’s only 2 issues that I can see and they’re minor.

1. The screen – it feels loose, it rattles, makes the mod feel a little cheap compared to the quality of the version 1 Rx200.

2. Gaps. I hate gaps. I shouldn’t but I do. My old reliable velocity that has never not sat flush on anything has a gap between itself and the mod. Anything that has a slightly longer protruding pin than is normal will have a gap.

The good points and why i would buy it again.
1. Its a Realeaux. It will always work – its a brand name for reliability if we ignore the weird 2/3 mod.
2. The battery life is insane. This alone makes it worth a buy.
3. Its heavy. I love heavy mods.
4. It does fit in pockets, not always super comfortably, but it fits.
5. The power. No i dont vape at 300W but at 120W, it feels like 120W should, no lag time and hard hitting.
6. The price. Its so cheap. Get this mod starting out and you’ll never need another mod, no matter what way you vape (if you’ve got the pockets to handle it).


Vaping battery safety


Ok, so I’m sick of explaining battery safety. I mean I’ll always explain it, but I really wish that either vendors would explain it to people they sell mechs to or people would do some research before buying something they don’t know how to use.

This blog entry was started as a simple explanation of Ohms law, but as I’ve been getting asked questions, I’ve been adding more detail to it – so what this is, is a growing guide to vaping from the perspective of battery usage.


————————-Definitions and Terminology———————–

Batteries – 

Mahthe Milliamp hours – The battery charge life. The higher this number, the longer your battery will last per charge.

Amp limit Unless other wise stated, this is the Continuous current draw limit – the max current in amps that you can draw from your battery.

Nominal voltagethis is not actually the voltage present on your battery at full charge as so many believe, this is the voltage classification of your battery. 18650 batteries are classified as 3.7v batteries when in fact many will average around 4-4.2V on a full charge for the first 6 months of regular use with decent charging (only charge from nearly dead, not from the likes of 70%)

So if you have a 2000Mah 3.7v 20A battery, you have a battery life of 2000Mah (not bad) a nominal voltage class of 3.7v – so max charge around 4-4.2v depending on how good your battery is, and a max continuous discharge of 20A.

Continuous discharge versus pulse by definition, anything less than infinity is a pulse discharge. Batteries are rated by continuous, that is, the max amps the battery can discharge, till it dies, without failing (going boom boom). A pulse discharge is a short burst, for vaping, usually less than 5 seconds. Now depending on the battery, the pulse rating will be higher than the continuous rating – for a 20A battery, i would usually put the pulse rating at 25A. Battery Mooch (link below) gives a Max vaping amps rating on his 18650 tests.

Devices – 

Mechanical (Mech) Mod – A device which is made up of no electronic components (without the battery) which has a connection between the battery and the atomizer. The device is fired by pressing a button which is usually spring or magnet operated. These devices are for advanced users only.

Hybrid Mod – A sub category of Mech mods, which typically have a 510 pin connector, with a Hybrid – the Atomizer has direct contact with the battery. This requires a protruding 510 pin. This devices are usually for advanced users who already have experience with Mech mods.

Regulated Mod – a mod with a regulator circuit which will give the same voltage output no matter your battery charge level. Where the power behind each “hit” is a tiny bit less than the one before, with a mech, as the battery drains; with a regulated mod, the voltage remains constant till the battery charge falls below a certain point needed to provide the desired level. Many regulated devices today are VV/VW mods – Variable Voltage/Variable Wattage, which allow you to adjust the volatage/power going through your coil. These mods are ideal for beginners as they can have built in safety features such as short circuit protection, low battery protection, excessive current protection and a fire cut off.


—————————–Regulated Mods——————————


Now when you use a regulated mod – a mod with variable wattage or a circuit which determines its output based on the resistance for you, you don’t really have to worry. The device will limit your voltage so you cant go over a certain amp level.

Now thats not to say regulated mods are perfectly safe if misused. 

If your mod is set to stop (by limiting your voltage) anything higher than a 25amp current but you’ve got some cheapo 5A panasonics (They’re still out there), your going to have a bad time.

Thats why most mods advertise that they require high drain batteries. Personally i’d recommend anything over 20A. But if your vaping a .5 ohm coil at 30 watts you dont have much to worry about – with regulated mods, like most things, they only really become dangerous when your pushing their limits.

If you want to learn more about calculating amp limits for regulated mods (its different to mechanical) this is a good article to start you out – Calculating current for a regulated mod.

As a general rule – if your building coils or vaping below .5 and above 30 watts you need to research battery safety. All vapers would in an ideal world but its not an ideal world.


—————————Mechanical Mods—————————–


When you use a Mechanical or unregulated mod however, you need to determine the resistance to suit the spec of your batteries based on their output – the user variable changes from voltage (which is what wattage controls in regulated) to resistance.

The way it works is – the current drawn from the battery is based on how much resistance is in the circuit – less resistance, more current flow, more resistance, less current flow. The voltage is the “force” behind the flow so to speak (not strictly speaking true but works for this basic description), the more volatge, the more current.


————————Calculating Ohm’s Law————————

To relate the Voltage, Current and Resistance together, we use Ohm’s Law. 

We use it as follows (this is an exert from one of my own FB posts – I’m not retyping it because as i said, I’m sick of having to re do it):

Ohms law is V=IR
V is voltage in volts
I is current in amps
R is resistance in ohms

It states that the voltage is equal to the current multiplied by the resistance.

For vaping mechs we swap this around to

Voltage divided by resistance = the amps.

So on a parallel box you will have 3.7v – 4.2v (same voltage as a single 18650 mech. Series boxes will have about 7.4-8.4v depending on batteries).
I normally take 4.2v for my calculations assuming its a good, new battery by a decent company.

Lets say you are using a samsung 25r which can handle about 25amps. And a .2 build (which is crap on a parallel box but this is just an example)

4.2v/.2=21 amps

So this means there are 21 amps of current being drawn from the  battery by the coils. As the battery is rated for 25 amps and you are below this – it is safe to vape.

Battery Mooch has an excellent chart for checking the Specs of 18650 batteries:


Vaping – A beginners guide

Hey. PSST. Your there! wan buy some mufucking vaps?


With all the negative press vaping has been getting in the last few months I wouldn’t be surprised if that is how you expect vape retail to work. But the reality is a bit different.

I picked up my first cigarette at 16/17 and within a couple of months was up to 20 a day and i went on to smoke for about 8 odd years. By the end i was hitting maybe 60 a day some days. But my now wife asked me to quit so i did.

I tried going cold turkey, that lasted 5 minutes – I really really really really really love smoking. Love, not loved, i still love smoking, i just recognize that it will shorten my life span, plus i really really really really really really (thats +1 more) love vaping.

The reality of vaping is that studies show it is 95% healthier than tobacco cigarettes as the only ingredient in common with cigarettes is nicotine – which does not cause cancer. It’s just addictive. The only other ingredients in e-liquid are PG and VG which are not harmful to the human body. PG is basically an air purifier and VG is just vegetable extract in layman’s terms. Yes e cigarettes are harmful – just 95% less so than cigarettes which is the point. Ecigs/Vapes are less likely to kill you and they still scratch that itch.

So you want to make the switch? Great theres plenty of options out there. If you want to quit you dont need some big expensive pieve of kit.

Find your local store (a bit of google) and get yourself a 20 quid vape pen and a bottle of liquid. Ask the seller to show you how to use it.

For the first week or two your going to want to smoke – my advice, keep some smokes around.

If you know theyre there you wont get as jittery, go as long as you can without one and use the vape to bridge the gaps. Eventually there wont be anymore gaps.